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Mac_Muz
Steering Committee



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Total Posts : 10321
 
   Posted 5/9/2004 9:45 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
When you have a engine related problem, there is order, or there is maddness...
 
With a running engine the first thing that should be done is a compression test.
 
With a well warmed engine, you pull the spark plugs, and the air filter if you have constant velocity carbs. prop the sliders up with a finger once the comp tester is installed, and hold the grip wide open as you push the start button.
 
Record this reading and do each cylinder this same way for as many clys as there are.
 
Then do a wet comp test by adding 6 to 10 drops of what ever engine oil you use to each plug hole. Spin the engine over one time before you install the comp tester to distribute the oil you just added.
 
Repeat the same test procedure.
 
On paper you will then have Dry.... cly 1 cly 2 cly 3 cly 4, and that test reading..
 
Under that will be wet and cly 1 cly 2 and so on for as many clys as you have...
 
Then you have a know set of figures...
 
Next test each wire and plug for visual spark. A plug pliers is nice... You might not get zapped if you use them. In any case don't support your body with the bike.
 
With the key ON hold the plug tight against the engine and push the button and watch the plug spark... it should be bright fat and blue.
 
Set engine timing if it is possible... These days on many bikes this is not possible with out doing tricks. Older bikes can still be adjusted mechanicly...
 
If a plug fails test the plug wire first, as the ends tend to fail first. One way is to remove the wire when possible. Some bikes have built in sets with the coil these days..
 
With a ohm meter hooked to the ends of a wire wiggle it... A good wire will have a reading as book spec. A dead wire will not read.
 
Check the wires to the coils, and to the ecu (electronic controll unit)
 
Obviously if there is a compression problem the engine is sick and in need of repair.
 
If you get no spark or weak yellow spark there is a problem.
 
Weak spark can be a weak battery problem!!!
 
If you were able to crank the bike well 13 times as stated above probably the battery needs no testing. If the cranking became weak, and or you get yellow spark the battery needs a charge and some testing.
 
So in order comp , spark and finally fuel should be tested in ORDER.
 
Once Comp, and spark pass, then and then only can fuel be considered.
 
For fuel related problems please see vac leaks.... Mac
 
 


When all else fails read the instructions...

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tonyholbury
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   Posted 9/3/2004 3:16 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
You missed the 'if the wet cylinder is significantly higher or if one cylinder is lower by more then 10/15 PSI then the other, you have a shagged bore as we say in the damp spot on the other side of the pond...Hi Mac where you been?


Sometimes you have to upset the dumb ones to educate the smart ones!

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tonyholbury
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   Posted 9/3/2004 3:18 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
PS if your friends are comedians watch out for the thin lead pencil line down the side of the sparkplug, (or the tickover screw, screwed right in when you kick the bike over!!!!


Sometimes you have to upset the dumb ones to educate the smart ones!

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Iloveburnrice
banished

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Date Joined Sep 2004
Total Posts : 2123
 
   Posted 5/15/2005 6:37 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
be carefull some magneto + electronic ignition pop if the plug is not grounded when kick over.


Ultra = Dragon case. Ultra 400w psu.MSI 865PE Neo2-P..Aero Cool 101 Jr HS .Pent 4 3.4 @3.5 Ghz.Western D 200GB .Kingston PC3200.PNY 6600GT.Zephyrus Fan Controler, 7 x Aero cool 80mm fans.  

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AllWXRider
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Total Posts : 623
 
   Posted 10/10/2005 10:05 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Always provide a load to any ignition coil before cranking over. The energy has to go somewhere and without a spark plug load it will burn through the ignition coil. Short the wire to cylinder ground or through a spark plug but never fire it open circuit.

Adjust the valve clearance. If these are too tight you could loose compression or burn a valve.
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Greywolf
Fuzzy Logic Inc.



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Date Joined Nov 2005
Total Posts : 319
 
   Posted 11/26/2005 9:14 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Mechanical first - without it nothing makes much difference.

Electrical second! Both of these can be ascertained to be without fault before proceeding.

FUEL SYSTEM is last - because it is highly subject to variation.

Mechanicals are either "ON" or they are ruined.

Electricals once properly set are either good or bad - once they are set, they are set.

THIS holds true with all vehicles I have ever troubleshot.


"If we could just get everyone to close their eyes and
visualize world peace for an hour, imagine how serene
and quiet it would be until the looting started..."
David - Age 15
 
 

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Honda tech
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Total Posts : 65
 
   Posted 4/17/2006 11:15 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
When checking spark on the plug,the spark must be in the gap area,between the electrodes,not to the side .A fouled plug can still spark and cause a misfire.
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Zippy13
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Date Joined Mar 2007
Total Posts : 11
 
   Posted 3/29/2007 9:19 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
I think I've found you.........although I am crap on these pooters.
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