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Mat
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   Posted 6/23/2005 5:39 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
...and then there are those of us who make little now, and since we would have to engage in debauchery and crime to afford a HD  -we choose instead to ride a Nomad and stay out of jail...   tongue
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Hiputong Stekward
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   Posted 6/24/2005 2:38 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Mat said...
...and then there are those of us who make little now, and since we would have to engage in debauchery and crime to afford a HD  -we choose instead to ride a Nomad and stay out of jail...   tongue
   Your view is different with Cadd's.    Do you want to teach American culture to other country?
 
  hiputong  Stekward


Motorcycle is the most favourite for young!  email : hiputong@hotmail.com    MSN: hiputong@hotmail.com
 
 

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Hiputong Stekward
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   Posted 6/24/2005 8:29 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

  In my country, the fee to use a motorcycle is higher than in USA.   Here the petrol price is high.  About 3.7yuan RMB. On
the other hand, the price is rather lower in USA.
 
hiputong  Stekward


Motorcycle is the most favourite for young!  email : hiputong@hotmail.com    MSN: hiputong@hotmail.com
 
 

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 7/28/2005 6:43 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Day 719

14,008 miles

Tomorrow we ride to Topaz Lake NV for the 5th High Sierra Vulcan Riders & Owners Club Rally. It's about 250 miles each way, plus we will likely make another 250 miles in side trips before returning, so total will be about 750 miles.

I took off work today to prepare, and went over the Nomad from stem to stern.

I put a dab of extra air in the air shocks (about 35 psi) as we will be taking a good load over the mountains, and I don't want to scrape chrome off the mufflers if I don't have too.

Checked the brake linings & fluid, air filter, several critical bolts, re-positioned my highway pegs to be a tad closer, checked oil, pressures, checked for leaks nails etc. Everything was great. I did have to add a half-pint of coolant. Parking it outside all day in this 100+ degree weather causes some evaporation. I don't appear to be leaking any. It's about 1000 miles since my last oil change, and it doesn't appear to have burned any.

I spent about 3 hours going over the bike with spray cleaner and rags, and polished it with some Meguiar's.

Bought a smaller, lighter air compressor for the bike, and packed up my tools, patch kits, etc. Also bought a bigger memory card for my camera. I hope to take a lot more pictures this year.

I bought a new set of Metzlers for the bike. I really don't need them yet, but you never know when you'll get a flat, so it's nice to have spares around. I also bought spare brake pads and a new rotor, but no need to change them yet.


Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 12/14/2005 5:14 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(It's been a long time & I need to catch up on my blogging a bit. the first two entries should have been posted months ago....Cadd.)

(9-29-2005)
Day 782
14,898 miles

Tomorrow is the trip up thru Tioga to meet Mac & Gwyn in Lee Vining.
I changed the oil and filter. My Kawasaki filters fromm Ron Greene Motorsports didn't show up in time, so I used a Supertech filter from Wal-Mart. It's only $2 (as opposed to $6.50 from Ron Greene and $14+ (!) with tax from our local dealer.) THe Supertech was rated nearly as good as the very best (PureOne) oil filter, so I had no qualms about using it. It's a bit longer than the Kawi filter, but fits just fine.

Other than that, I blew out the air filters and oiled them, and gave the Nomad a quick once-over with some polish & checked the tires.

(10-8-2005)
Day 801
15,700 miles (approx.)

Mac & I have been workin' on bikes for a week now. We found out the local hardware store mow has chrome metric hardware, so we went there to get some stuff for the bikes. (Actually we were looking for something to shim the swingarm sideplay, but more on that ...)

Anyhow, I spent $65 on chrome allen heads, flat washers, and acorn nuts. I replaced the buggered bolts & acorns on my crash bar. (not from crashing. The dealer overtightened them.) I also replaced the ugly black allen heads in my chrome floorboard mounts with new chrome allens. The one's Mac bought for his risers were too long, but turned out to be just right for my engine mounts, so on they went.

Anyhow, in messing around with mac's alignment we discovered that there was 0.132" sideplay in his swingarm pivot. We were going to make some shims to tighten it up, but his new swingarm seals reduced the slop to only 0.100" and he decided not to mess with it further. In the process, I checked mine and discovered it has 0.099" sideplay. It turns out that this is typical for Nomads, but I intend to shim it up tighter. I can feel the rear move sideways under certain circumstances, and it's quite annoying.

(12-14-2005)
Day 858 (!)
17, 454 miles

I put on my new Fire & Steel passenger grab rails on this AM. They fit, & they're solid enough, but the bolts they give you could be a thread or two longer. I think I'll be going out to the hardware atore for more chrome. ;-)

Also, don't these guys think to de-burr shit before they chrome it? The burrs weren't big, and you don't see them when the rails are mounted on the bike, but they ARE there. I will hesitate to buy their stuff again. Mac's bike has the same Fire & Steel sissy bar & luggage rack combo as mine, and though mine is fine the chrome is peeling off of his. Same thing with my buddy Ed's Fire & Steel passenger floorboards on his Vulcan Classic. His chrome is coming off in big flakes.

I need to put in the winter oil, as it's getting colder here, with temps almost down to freezing. I'm using the heat lamp under the engine every morning for an hour before I start it. Even so, it should have thinner oil. I should also clean the air filters really well and re-oil them. Last time I didn't use the solvent, but just blew them out with an air hose & oiled them. I can see the dirt and dead bugs starting to build up.

I'm not due to grease the drive shaft for another 12,000 miles, but after seeing what happened to Mac's (the "lifetime sealed" spicer joint was dry & starting to seize) I think I'll pull it down soon & give it a good looking over. It's only been about 6,000 miles since I lubed it, but now I'm a little paranoid.

I also still intend to shim that endplay in the swingarm pivot, & that would be the time to do the shaft as well. I think I will try to get some Nylatron GSM to make the shims. I don't really want to use metal shims there because they would be captive on the swingarm spacers, which are also the inner bearing races. If I can't get that, I'll possibly use aluminum. Neoprene wold be OK, if I could force it in there tight, but there's no good way to do so.


Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 5/30/2006 7:45 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Hmmm...Still behind the 8-ball here post-wise...
Fortunately, I keep notes so I can re-create this suff. (At least in some form.)

(1-22-06)
Day 875
17,942 miles

Winter has been particularly mild (though particularly wet for this area) but did the winter oil change today. Looked at the brakes, etc. Looks like another minor coolant leak. Just a trace of residue on the side cover. Will have to keep an eye on it.
Deferred the air filter cleaning again. These things are so big, it will take forever to clog them enough to affect performance.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 5/30/2006 7:55 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(1-25-06)
Day 878
mileage unrecorded

Bought a set of chrome side covers for the bike. These are not the glue-on ones that hide the factory plastic side covers, but a set made from sheet steel by some tinsmith & chromed. I paid $172 with shipping.

The fit was a little tight, but they went on, and tight is definately better than loose. The stock hardware fit just fine.
They are prety nice, but not show-bike perfect. You can tell where they were over buffed in spots and made wavy.
Still they look better than the black plastic ones, so I think I will keep them.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 5/30/2006 8:07 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(5-29-16)
Day 1002

19,578 miles

Had picked up a big nail a few weeks back & was running a plug in the rear tire. Changed the rear in preperation for our Vacation trip up the coast, starting (hopefully) June 13. I went back to the Metzler Me880 160-80-16 (from the 150-80-16) as it is significantly taller. This change accounted for a noticible change in gas mileage, as the 150 Metz was smaller than the 150 (stock) Bridgestone, but the 160 is just a tad bigger than the 'Stone.

The tire changing went very well. I like the Motion Pro tire irons, though they could be longer, the shape is perfect.

I also changed the rear rotor & rear brake pads, as they were both getting rather worn. I don't know if the used rotor can be turned yet or not.

I greased the driveshaft & swingarm, replaced the driveshaft boot, as the rubber was split, and shimmed the swingarm sideplay with neoprene washers. The neoprene worked better than I though it would.

I noticed, however, that the u-joint is getting a trifle stiff in one direction. It's not as bad as Mac's was when we changed it, but I doubt it will last another 5000 miles. I should probably change it before the trip, but I really still need to do the front tire & brakes, lube & adjust the neck, change the brake fluid, oil, and coolant.

I don't know if I can get to all of that in time.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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Tros
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   Posted 5/30/2006 1:48 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Always on top of the maintence, arent you, Cadd? :-)


"People take different roads seeking fulfillment and happiness. Just because they're not on your road doesn't mean they've gotten lost."

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 5/30/2006 2:06 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Yeah, well, my wife can't do it. If she wants to ride I gotta wrench.

lol


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 6/3/2006 4:43 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1007
19,661 miles

More work on the bike today, getting ready for the vacation ride up highway-1.

Changed out the oil & oil filter. 3.75 quarts of Mobil-1 15w-50, which is my usual Summer oil. Temps have been hitting the 90's here & promising hotter, so it was time to dump the Winter weight oil anyhow.

New oil filter: Supertech ST7317 from Wal-Mart. This filter rated much better than Fram, and about as well as the stock Kawasaki filter, and at $2.09 the price can't be beat. It's also just a little bigger than the stock filter. I think it is originally sold for the Mazda Protege, but don't quote me on that.

Changed the rear end gear oil too. Pennzoil full synthetic 75w-90. The gear box only holds about a cup, so it's getting changed about 4x as frequently as recommended. Those gears are bloody expensive, and dang hard to change, so no sense being cheap or lazy about that job. To get the drain bolt out, the manual says "remove the left muffler and support bracket", but there is no frakin' way I'm doing that to get out one little bolt. As usual, I let the air out of the shocks, then tied the rear suspension down with a small rope, as I bounced my weight on the pillion seat. That gets just enough room to remove the drain bolt.

Pulled the brake covers off & checked the front brake pads. They're only half worn, so no hurry to change them yet. The rear brake pads took about 60 miles of commuting (probably about 60~80 stops) to seat in well, and now braking performance is right up there. Glad I'd changed those pads & rotor, as the rear rotor was heavily scored and the pads were almost paper thin.

I adjusted the rear brake light switch tighter, as I noticed it wasn't coming on fast enough to suit me. Once it seemed right, it was sticking in the on position, so I lubed the shaft & played around with it a bit to little avail. Finally I ended up backing the nut off some & settled for a compromise adjustment. Why is something so important on a bike made out of cheap plastic? I'll be changing this out soon, I can tell.

I pumped the rear shocks back up, checked tire pressures, & then screwed the left bag back on. Checked brake fluid & coolant too. I need to change both, as they haven't been touched since the bike was new: 34 months ago.

Before I leave, I still want to lube and adjust the neck bearings (also untouched for 34 months) and either clean or replace the air filters. I need to make the rounds to the local auto parts stores to see if I can find some new ones like these (blue cloth) as all I've seen for sale is the white paper ones. I may have to settle for those, if I decide not to clean & oil mine. The rubber on the edge of one is starting to peel away, as these Spectre's are just not as good as K&N's, but at 1/3 the price (less than 1/6th K&N's price for the paper ones) I can afford to just toss them either way.

Also need to oil the shifter linkage heim joints & brake pedal bushing. Just writing this all down so I'll remember to do it all.

I can't wait for that first glimpse of the ocean, going over the coastal range from the SJ valley. Just 10 more days untill blast-off.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 7/30/2006 7:17 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1064
22,323 miles.

My replacement u-joints from Tucker-rocky have never come in. They've been on back order for almost two months now.

I changed out the complete driveshaft today. I'm happy I did it too. In just under 3,000 miles it had got noticibly stiffer on the bad axis, and was as bad or worse than the one we changed on Mac's bike. The replacement shaft I got used for only $35 + shipping from an MC junkyard, and it was in really cherry condition. It came off a '96 Vulcan 88, and was a perfect match.

Why was this 10 year old u-joint in perfect shape while my 3 year old one was nearly toast? Hard to say, but I suspect improper assembly. I'll just have the u-joint matched up locally & change it, and then I'll have a spare shaft, the rest of the thing being in perfect shape.

I also changed out the rear brake pads, as after only 3,000 miles they were shot. Admittedly, that 3,000 miles contained some tough riding: lots of hills and mountains, with a good load on too, but I decided to go to a somewhat harder compound. My rotor may suffer from it, and I may be sorry because the pads are really easy to change, but I had pads of both types on hand, and so decided to give it a shot.

These are all the thinner early model pads I'm talking about here, and the later model (thicker) pads will last almost twice as long, but I didn't have those on hand. I'm waiting for the price to drop a bit, now that they've quit making this particular bike. Then I'll probably buy up a bunch.

I spent about two hours extra cleaning off all the crap from my ride over Tioga in a storm, and I'm just beat. It was about 98*F in the garage today.

I still haven't flushed the brake fluid or coolant, nor have I lubed & adjusted the neck; and I really need to change the front tire (very cupped now after 22,323 miles), so perhaps next weekend will be spent working rather than riding too.

I hope it cools off, but August is always freakin' hot here too.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 8/5/2006 7:02 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1070
22,506 miles

I finally changed the front tire today. The original Bridgestone Excedra was getting pretty lumpy, and almost down to the wear bars. I finally bought some rim savers from Motion Pro, and they work much better than the cardboard shims I was using before.

I also inspected the front brakes. I was going to change the pads, but they were only half worn, so I just cleaned the calipers up & put them back on.

I removed the windshield, bars, and top tree, and dropped the forks to inspect the neck bearings, as the bike's felt rather loose lately. The looked fine, but the bottom one was nearly dry. I cleaned them up, packed them with synthetic grease, and when I closed it up I increased the pre-load just a bit above stock spec.

I cleaned up everything you can't get to with the bike assembled, and buttoned it all back up.

The replacement tire was a Metzler ME 880 150/80-16, which is theoretically the same as stock, but the Metz has a rounder shape, less shoulder, and a lower profile than the Excedra. Basically, that means it looks smaller. But would it feel smaller?

After cleaning up, I took it out in our cul-de-sac, and did a dozen full-lock turns, and figure eights to scuff the tire in, then I went for a quick ride.

Right off, the bike turned in too fast, so I dropped the pressure 3 lbs below what I'd been running (35psi vs. 38) and it instantly became very neutral in tight manuvers. Straight line stability seemed good, cornering in town was good, and rather quicker and lighter than the Excedra, and traction confidence on my part was pretty good for a brand new tire.

The Nomad has a tendancy to wander just a bit at really low speed (like 3 mph) which means concentration when coming to a stop. It seems tighter now, and I attribute this mostly to the freshly lubed & adjusted steering head, but having a non-lumpy tire and (probably) a slightly reduced rake & trail probably helps too. ;-)

I haven't ridden it two-up yet, nor done any high speed sweepers or wet riding, so the ultimate effects remain to be seen.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 9/12/2006 5:59 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(I forgot to post this earlier, but fortunately I keep notes. ;-) )

Aug, 30, 2006
Day 1095
23,111 miles

Changed the oil & filter today. The oil still looks pretty clean as it comes out, and the strainer is free of debris.
Used Mobil-1 15w-50 & the Supertech filter. I bought every filter the local Wal-Mart had, as it's $10 cheaper than the one from our dealer, & even $4.50 cheaper than the Kawi filters in bulk by mail order.

Checked the brake pads, which all looked OK. Still need to flush the hydraulic fluid.

I'd taken Judy on a pretty wild ride through King's Canyon the previous weekend, and the new tire did quite well, though it did even better in the twisties when I dropped another couple pounds of air pressure. I still had the rear shocks at 45 psi which was possibly a bit high & forcing suspension effort more towards the front.

The speedometer has dust under the glass. I want to pull it apart & clean & re-seal it. If I do, it might just blow apart the next time I go over Tioga pass (9950 ft), so I'm going to think about a relief bladder of some sort. That's a dang expensive gage cluster if you screw one up. I've been told you can screw up the LCD odometer/clock by just setting the gage on a bench upside down for an hour.

Bike still runs great & I ride it virtually every day, but it was certainly a chore trying to follow the sportbikes up King's Canyon Road. I could blast hard out of every corner, but going in I had to back way off the gas. Fortunately, occassional traffic kept them from losing me completely. After all they were mostly riding solo, and I was two up, and on a bike at least 200# heavier than any of them.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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texrider
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   Posted 9/12/2006 7:35 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(Pesky little Ninja freaks) Did I say that out loud?
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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 9/14/2006 4:41 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Naaahhh...It was these guys:

 



"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 1/21/2007 6:48 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1240
24,718 miles

The bike was filthy from riding in sloppy weather, so I gave it a bit of a wash & polish today. The rear brake pads had been starting to squeek a little, from time to time, so I decided to change them.

I've had 3 styles of brake pads on the rear of Baggins since it was new. The stock 2004 pads are thicker than earlier years, and a rather hard semi-metalic construction, and these were the original pads. Since then I have been using the softer carbon composition pads from EBC, but these have so far only been available in the thinner (old nomad) style, and though they work great they are definately softer and not so harsh on the rotor. They are also half the price of the Kawasaki pads, and very easy to change, so I have no qualms about using them.

However I had bought one set of the EBC race formula pads last year and put them on just before my vacation trip. These are the thin style also, but an even harder semi-metalic composition than the original Kawasaki pads. When I removed them today, I found that though they were worn fairly evenly, and not grooved or checked much, they still had half their original thickness. I didn't notice any real improvement in performance for the type of riding I do, so I tossed them and put in the softer EBC carbon-type pads.

Frankly, I think I will stick to this type of pad from now on, even if the thicker style does not become available. I will say that the harder pads kept the wheel somewhat cleaner looking, but they were making some noticible marks on the rotor, and as the rotor costs nearly as much as 6 sets of pads, (and takes 10 times as long to change) I think it is good economy to stick with the softer pads from now on.

Baggins continues to run well, though without the AIS solenoids it is a little trickier to start when the weather turns cold. You need to be spot on with the throttle setting to get it to start on the first try when the temps drop into the 30's and below.

I got a new battery tender for Christmas (my old one disappeared some 10 years ago) and I've been keeping the bike plugged into it every night. The battery still seems strong after 3 1/2 years of nearly daily service, but as the cost of a new one is repulsive, I'm going to make every effort to make this one last.

I also pre-warm the engine every morning for an hour with a 500 watt heatlamp aimed at the lower radiator tank & front of the oil sump. This definately reduces the warm up time in the morning during the winter, and the engine gets quiet much quicker. I'm sure this will prolong the engine life in the long run.

I removed the CaddmannQ Emergency Moto-hydration system, as one of the plastic cups was starting to crack. This was not the fault of the cup itself, but an operator error. I had over-stressed the material when installing water bottles of a slightly greater diameter than it was originally made to accept. Perhaps I will come up with something more attractive by next summer (when mobile hydration will once again become a necessity) but I doubt it will be as quick, easy, and cheap as the original model. ;-)

I'm still running the old Vulcan 88 driveshaft I got from a junkyard, and it is doing fine. I bought two greasable u-joints by mail-order to service the original one, but it sits on my bench unrepaired. Possibly I will fix it & change driveshafts back again, once I wear out the current rear tire, since changing the tire gets you 95% of the way to removal of the shaft anyway. These Metzler tires seem to be wearing very well though, so it may be quite a long time getting to this, unless I have a rear flat I don't want to plug.

Also, I am still running the soft neoprene shims as thrust washers on the swingarm pivot, and I expect to have manufactured some stiffer ones from Nylatron before then. So far, actually acquiring the Nylatron has been an issue, and I might end up turning some shims out of a hard skateboard wheel or something similar if I can't find suitable material stock to work with.

(The CaddmannQ Emergency Moto-hydration System: )


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

Post Edited (CaddmannQ) : 1/22/2007 1:55:48 AM GMT

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 2/17/2007 6:19 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
(I should have posted this 2-14-07, but I forgot.)

Day 1264
24,907 miles

I decided the weather had warmed up enough that I should change out the winter oil.

I used Mobil-1, 15w-50, and the Super Tech (Walmart) oil filter. I took a look at the tires, plugged in the battery tender, and went in to cook dinner for my sweetie, who is busilly writing for her master's degree. I need to do other things, but no time today.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 2/17/2007 6:50 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1267
24,997 miles

Too beautiful a day to work on the bike, so I took my wife to the movies. Later I took her flat tire to the shop to be fixed, took her for a bit of shopping & went for a short ride to the local bike dealer. (about 25 miles round trip.)

They've enlarged their shop, taking over the Honda car showroom, which was moved to the former Lexus showroom. There were lots of Hondas, Suzukis, Yamahas, & Kawasakis on the floor, and a few Polaris bikes as well. There was not a single Nomad on the floor however. I picked up a gallon of Honda Cool and looked around a bit, then rode home.

With almost 20,000 miles of regular stop & go commuting and maybe almost 5000 heavily-loaded highway miles on Baggins, I can tell the bike's loostening up a bit. It still starts and runs well, but time and hard use is slowly taking its toll. In another 25,000 miles I will probably decide to sell it, though some folks say these bikes will go well over 100,000 miles, I don't think that includes the kind of duty I put it through.

It's been 40 months since the purchase, and all-in-all I've been very satisfied as far as reliability is concerned. With the exception of a bad u-joint, some flat tires, one rear rotor, some brake pads, and a few very minor coolant leaks, this bike has been about as trouble free as one could expect. It has not once been in the shop since the day I rode it out. It's never failed to start. Gas mileage has fallen off a little. Perhaps it's just been the cold weather, or maybe I need to finally change the sparkplugs. In the old days I'd never keep a set more than 10,000 miles, and these are the originals.

I do need to change the brake fluid, now that the weather has dried up. It's never been done since new, but the brakes have worked flawlessly by my estimation. I've put it off as I hate to open the system up in damp weather. I should also change the fork oil and give it a good cleaning and wax.
 
I need to lube the cables and controls. I'm writing all this down so I don't forget. eyes

I also need to raise the tank and track down a minor coolant leak that has cost me around a pint of coolant over the past year. Basically, it seems to leak about one drop whenever I ride the bike, but not every time; and it evaporates before it can drip anywhere I can see it, but I can usually smell it when it falls on the hot engine. I think this is coming from one of the coolant pipes which plug into each head, but it may just be one of the 5 hose clamps hidden under the tank.

This is my most major gripe about this bike: on a liquid cooled machine it should be easy to see the filler cap, all the clamps, and all the joints in the cooling system without tearing off the tank or anything else. You should be able to tighten this stuff out on the road in five minutes with a screwdriver, and not have to fuss about to see it. The water pump, electric fan, and the radiator are really the only easy parts to get to.

Well, enough of my musings for now. ;-)


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

Post Edited (CaddmannQ) : 2/18/2007 1:54:39 AM GMT

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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 2/18/2007 6:15 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Day 1268
24,997 miles
 
I changed brake fluid on the Nomad today. I'd bought a Powerbuilt vacuum pump to help with this chore, and it looked like a nice one. All machined and annodized aluminum with brass valves & a nice gage, coated with rubber. Well I'm not too happy with the new pump. It worked but not until after I took it apart & put it together again.
 
Some lame jerk screwed it up at the factory by not tightening one of the internal check valves, and the loose valve popped out & scored the bore. I had to hone my brand new pump. Of course I didn't realize the valve was loose right away, as it was the outlet valve & I could still suck a nice vacuum. That is until the loose valve jammed the piston. Crap.
 
Here's the pump (after honing) and a photo of it in action on the rear brake of Baggins.
 
 
 
 
 
 
On the bright side, I replaced my u-joint on the Nomad's original drive shaft. Mine went the same as Mac's did: stiff in one direction, leading us to think it hadn't been greased correctly at assembly; but what I found when I stripped it was not burnt needles at all, and the grease was fine.
 
There was a slight machining burr on one of the bores, and that caused the cup to be installed too deep when they pressed the circlip into place. This made the spider bind against the bearing cups on two ends. I chased the burr off, put the new joint in, and the action is now perfect.
 
Kawasaki does not sell this u-joint as a seperate part for Vulcans. They want you to buy a whole new shaft assembly for $300. Phoooey on that! A new u-joint from a Prairie quad is only $25 from Team Motorsports, and it fits perfect. Mac's Nomad got a whole new shaft, as it was under warranty. I wonder how many people got sold new $300 (plus labor) driveshafts because some stupid guy didn't de-burr the yoke properly?
 
The old u-joint was still good, so I saved it. The new one has a zerk, so it can be lubed by just pushing the rubber boot loose on the swingarm.
 
Getting the circlips out is the first, and the hardest part & impossible to photograph. Here's one half cliped in place after the joint was half disassembled. Four of these keep the bearing cups located in the yokes. To remove the clips, you need a small screwdriver and a pick, as pictured. First you push on one end of the clip to get it started off, then when a gap opens up, stick the pick in it. Stuff the screwdriver in next to the pick and twist it to pop the clip loose. If you stick a rag over it, the clip won't pop across the garage & get lost like my first one did.
 
 
 
Once you get two opposing clips off, you can start to drive the cups through, using a hammer & sockets. Just one socket is needed to get it started.
 
 
 
Unfortunately the yokes bind before the first cup falls completely loose, so I clamped each cup with a visegrips, and tapped the visegrips gently to finally dislodge the cup. this never happens when working on a car. The yokes on my bike, however, fit more closely together, requiring this extra step.
 
 
 (cont'd.)


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

Post Edited (CaddmannQ) : 2/20/2007 7:52:02 PM GMT


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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 2/18/2007 6:25 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Here I'm tapping the visegrips to dislodge the cup.

 

Once the yoke is free from the spider, you can easily drive the opposite cup out with a big punch.

 

Here's the spider, cups, clips and yokes all disassembled. Yeah, I lost one clip when it sprang across the garage like a cricket on speed. It'll turn up next time I sweep the floor.

 

Here's the new u-joint with the zerk partly screwed in.

 

Assembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly. Tap the cups in with a hammer & sockets until the circlips just barely fit, then check the joint for smooth action. Ahhhh.....Perfect!


(cont'd.)


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

Post Edited (CaddmannQ) : 2/19/2007 1:28:21 AM GMT


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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 2/18/2007 6:34 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Oops, here's the photo using the big punch and a socket. The previous one was just driving the spider through with a small punch (OK, actually a ground down screwdriver!)

 

Here's the box from Team, showing the part number of the new joint. OK, I could have just typed the number right here, but a photo makes it easier to find in the text. ;-)

 

You can also use a hydraulic press to do this job (which I don't have) or a puller somewhat like this, but the puller I have is just a bit akward on this small yoke.

 

 



"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd
2004 Nomad 1500 "Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128


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H-BOMB
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   Posted 6/16/2007 4:06 PM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Hey all,
I need help ! I love my 1600 nomad - best bike ever- at least that I've had.
I'm going to install a kuryakyn wild-thing, "CADDMANN MOD", and V&H dual baggers.
What I need help with are the settings for the wild-thing.
 
This is my first post on any forum, hope I'm doin' it right.
 
thanks for any help.
 
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CaddmannQ
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   Posted 6/17/2007 9:33 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
H-B, I think the "Wild Thing" is just a re-badged TFI.

Now every bike is a little different, and the altitude where you live is different, but as a start I'd run the pots like this:

green: 2:00
yellow: 6:00
red: 1:30
RPM: 8:30

Again, I'm assuming that this is just a TFI with a different lable.

These settings should be just a tiny bit rich, particularly if you live in the mountains, but you shouldn't be fouling out either. Go do some runs and do the fine adjustments according to the TFI instruction book, and you'll get it dialed in quickly.

Bear in mind that it's real easy to set the green pot up too rich, thinking it makes the bike faster, but you will screw up idle quality and fuel mileage. Unless you're gonna drag race somebody, keep that green pot turned down to where you still get good idle, but there's no flat spot upon light acceleration from around 1200 rpm.


"When in doubt, ride."
Cadd................................Clovis CA
2004 Nomad 1500............"Baggins"
VROC #11619 Rolling Blunder #128

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H-BOMB
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   Posted 6/17/2007 10:53 AM (GMT -7)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Thanks,Caddmann
Gonna kick 'er loose from the bank an' se if she floats!
h-bomb.
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